Despite being only 100 miles further south than our previous port of call, the Orkney Islands could not be more different than the Shetlands. Its fertile soil produces lush green meadows with which to feed the many cattle and sheep that reside on the islands, with both types of animal outnumbering human inhabitants. The Orkneys are green in both senses of the word with wind turbines, solar panels and other renewables giving them a world-wide reputation in this ground breaking technologies. In fact the Islands are self-sufficient in renewable energy and are looking at ways to export their electricity. Alongside these technologies lie the ancient artefacts from the Norse, Picts and other earlier civilisations. A truly fascinating place.
Once again today we had booked a trip which meant an early start from the ship. Leaving Kirkwall,the capital, to the north we passed fields of grass and barley, hugging the coastline as we travelled. Many fresh water lakes were visible which apparently are great for trout fishing.
Along the way we passed the junction of the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea which is visible as a line of bubbling foam due to the difference in height of the two bodies of water. This is approximately three feet.
The first stop was at the north-west corner of the main island, the Brough of Birsay, which was quite reminiscent of Dunraven Bay at home.
I should mention at this stage the wildlife on the island. Numerous birds hovered above the recently cut silage in the fields, such as oystercatchers, curlews and hooded crows. In fact the birdlife on the island is such that the RSPB is the largest land owner and there are apparently more bird reserves on this one island than there is in the whole of Wales. Rabbits were seen hopping through the fields, happy as there are no predators on the islands and once again seals were visible in the sea.
The island contains many artefacts from the Neolithic age and has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We passed a couple of sites such as the Ring of Brodgar, a six acre site containing what is described as a “Neolithic Cathedral”. The next stop was the rather “Game of Thrones” sounding Standing Stones of Sternness.
Beating the crowds to get some decent photos was difficult but we managed reasonably well.
Of course as well as holding a place in ancient history this part of Scotland also plays a large part in modern history as it is the location of Scapa Flow. This body of water provides one of the finest anchorages for naval vessels in the World as it is sheltered by the islands of Hoy and South Ronaldsay which provides a natural defence. Unfortunately despite this protection it has been the site of loss of many men and ships, including the WW1 German fleet which was scuppered here and HMS Royal Oak. This latter ship was sunk in 1939 by a German u-boat and resulted in the loss of 833 lives, a memorial to which can be found in Kirkwall cathedral.
Standing magnificently above Kirkwall is the red and yellow sandstone cathedral, which was the first place we visited on our return to the capital.
Built in part over 850 years ago the cathedral is dedicated to the patron saint of Orkney, St Magnus, his body being buried near the organ screen. Lining the walls of the nave are tombstones, predominantly dating from the 17th century, many decorated with skeletons and skull and crossbones. The central nave is particularly attractive being quite narrow but with tall Romanesque arches.
Kirkwall was another inaugural stop for Azura and I’m certain that it is one that P&O will add to the itinerary, a most pleasant day. As the ship pulled out from the berth tonight a Scottish pipe band wished us well on our forward journey.
