If anyone tries to tell you that all the Caribbean islands are the same, don’t believe them. The appearance of Barbados with its lack of mountains and long white sandy beaches is in stark contrast to the two previous islands we have visited. It is also a more affluent country with a much better infrastructure and large hotel complexes.
Today Sylvia and I travelled alone in order to explore some of the history of Barbados especially it’s link with the slave trade. We picked up a taxi at the cruise terminal gate and after agreeing a fare for the trip we set off with our driver Toby.
The driver pointed out the many sights of the capital, Bridgetown, as we slowlt traversed the morning rush hour. Outside the parliament building was Trafalgar Square with their statue of Admiral Nelson in the centre. At around 15ft tall it was a poor imitation of London’s version.
Although Toby was aware that we were after an historical tour he felt that it would be remiss of him not to show us the “Best Beach” on the island, Carlisle Beach. With it’s pure white sand stretching out as far as the eye could see under a beautiful blue sky I understand his reasoning.
Leaving the bustle of the capital behind us we drove through the open countryside past the airport to the Sunbury Plantation House. The original house dates back over three hundred years and was built by Matthew Chapman one of the first settlers on the island. The house was subsequently sold to Nathaniel Branker and latterly John and George Barrow, who gave it the Sunbury name.The house was restored and re-opened to the public in 1996.
Each room in the house is furnished with period pieces with the dining room having complete place settings. There is very little mention of the association with slavery even though in 1835 there were 244 slave apprentices working on the plantation. Slavery was offically abolished in Barbados in 1834 but it was two years before real freedom took place and during this time the slaves were referred to as slave apprentices. With the decadence of the main house I asked the guide where the slaves were housed. She pointed to an empty field and indicated that this is where their dwellings would have been. As you can see there are no signs of habitation left.
The slaves were used principally for harvesting the sugar crop, a particularly strenuous activity using machetes to cut down the canes. Today the process is mechanised and there are no machetes in sight.
Barbados is split into parishes with the Sunbury Plantation House being located in the largest St Philip. Our driver next took us to the Parish Church of St John, the oldest church on the island. Built in the early 1600s the church occupies a beautiful site overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
An old graveyard is located at the rear of the building with many familar English names engraved on the stones including some of the Barrow family mentioned above.A lovely church in a beautiful location.
Barbados is a very English island and remained in British control until it gained independence 50 years ago this year. Unlike many of the islands in the West Indies it was never invaded by the French or the Spanish and this was largely due to the defence system that was set up.Throughout the island there were six signal stations created which gave sight of all approaches from the sea and they also warned of any fires internally in the sugar fields. The next stop on Toby’s Tour was one of these signal stations called Gun Hill. Restored in the early 1980s Gun Hill is located on a hill that gives sight of half the island.
Barbados is a beautiful island and the people seem very “laid-back” and friendly, it’s certainly a place that I wouldn’t mind returning to. Tomorrow another island with much nautical history, Antigua.
