When our cabin steward, Ian, said “Have a nice day on Chicken Island” first thing this morning we were not sure what he was talking about. None of the literature that we had read about today’s destination had made any reference to chickens or indeed any other fowl. Later in the day we would find out to what he was referring.
Kauai is the fourth largest and oldest of the Hawaiian Islands and in many people’s opinion the most beautiful. We had once again booked a shore excursion to take in as much of the island as possible. This didn’t start well as the window in the coach was in such a poor condition that we couldn’t see out of it. Not much good on a sight-seeing trip!! The driver was very good and managed at the first stop to transfer Sylvia and I to the second coach doing the trip. This coach had perfectly clean windows but no seats together. Sylvia and I sat opposite each other next to two individuals hogging the window seats who we realised were a married couple from Texas. Now most couples would offer to swap seats to enable Sylvia and I to sit together but not these two.
The first stop on the excursion was the breathtaking Waimea Canyon, apparently referred to as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” by Mark Twain. The fact that he never visited the island perhaps places a question mark over this, but the description is apt.
Although substantially smaller than it’s mainland namesake the canyon is spectacular measuring 12 miles long and nearly a mile deep. It may seem very familiar to many of you as it has featured in many Hollywood blockbusters such as “Jurassic Park”, “King Kong” and “Raiders of the Lost Ark”.
All around the car park chickens, large and small, scurried around pecking at the soil for any foodstuff. These are all feral being released from captivity by a hurricane that devestated the island in the 1980s. Since there are no predators on the island, they have prospered and now can be seen all over the place, except ironically in the car park of the local KFC!!
The tour passed through the township of Waimea, where in 1778 Captain Cook became the first European to set foot on Hawaii. A replica of the statue in his birthplace Whitby marks the occasion. The trip continued along the coast road until it reaches a dead end at the Spouting Hole,one of the most photographed spots on the island. The waves breaking against the rocks are forced up through holes in the volcanic rock forming a fountain of white foamy water.
After a break for lunch (no BBQ today but a fish and pork dinner - delicious) we proceeded to the Wailua River for a boat trip. On the way we passed fields of coffee bushes, now the major agricultural crop of the island since the sugar canes and macedamian nut trees were destroyed in the same hurricane that released the chickens.
We boarded the boat for the journey upstream to the famous Fern Grotto, on the way the crew related tales of the history of the area. I listened intently.
The Fern Grotto is a large cave covered with Boston Sword ferns which dangle in front of the entrance, whose Hawaiian name is Maamaakualono. At one time access to this location was limited to just the Royal family but it then became one of the most popular wedding venues in the Islands,in fact it featured in the movie “Blue Hawaii”.
Nowadays due to safety concerns access into the grotto is prohibited but we were treated to a performance of the Hawaiian Wedding Song, which apparently meant we were all re-married.
Returning to the coach we were offered seats together by the couple who had been sitting apart. Now whether this was a result of the wedding ceremony or the fact that there were no more sights to see, we will probably never know.